Abner Royce. American. The Abner Royce Co, Cleveland, Ohio. Manufacturers of perfumes, soaps, toilet goods and flavourings, established in 1879. In business until at least 1935. No evidence of the use of metal compact or vanity cases.
Adams. American. Jane Wilson Adams was a cosmetics line created by Carlova Inc, Binghamton, New York, in 1928. There are no known compact or vanity cases produced bearing this brand name.
Aderon. American. A brand of compact case released by Norida Parfumerie in 1926. The name Aderon was based on the name Norida spelt backward.
Adoration. American. Trademark for perfume and cosmetics assigned to George H Betts who owned the Glebeas Importation Company. Adoration was released in 1915 and was used in conjunction with Glebeas' first vanity case in 1922.
Agra. American. Agra Co, Detroit, Michigan. Possibly originated from A Francis & Co. manufacturer of perfumes and toilet goods. Agra was in production from as early as 1907 until at least 1923 when it was probably absorbed by the Nyal Co. Agra metal compact cases were used in 1923 for its Ci-Mi line but these are rare.
Air Float. American. Trademark for face powder assigned to Percy Page of The Talcum Puff Co with first use claimed from 1904. Evidence of cardboard containers but no metal vanity boxes or compacts.
Alexandra de Markoff. American. Alexandra de Markoff, New York, New York. Established as a cosmetics line in 1930 by Brazilian Martin de Botelho, it was sold in 1947 and eventually acquired by Charles of the Ritz. The Alexandra de Markoff brand exists today. Face powder compacts bearing the de Markoff brand were not widely used and the most commonly found date from the late 1950s.
Alfred Wright. American. Alfred Wright, Rochester, New York. Perfumer. Established in 1866 and was the first American perfume wholesaler. In 1908 the company was acquired by William R Warner & Co, better known for its ownership of Richard Hudnut. Alfred Wright perfumes did not market face powders in compact or vanity cases.
Allan-Pfeiffer Co. American. Allan-Pfeiffer Chemical Co, St Louis, Missouri. Wholesaler and manufacturer of perfumes and toilet goods. Established in 1891 the company was also known as Allan, Perfumer with its well known Janice Face Powder brand being sold in the early 1900s. No metal vanity cases are associated with this company.
Allura. American. A face powder and later a cosmetics line made by Doraldina Inc, Hollywood, California. Allura was the first product made by the company from as early as 1915 and once the company had started to grow in the late 1920s Allura became a fully fledged cosmetics line. It was marketed until at least the 1930s. There is no evidence that Allura products were packaged in metal compact cases.
American Druggists’ Syndicate. American. American Druggists’ Syndicate (ADS), Long Island City, New York. Organised by Charles Goddard and George W Luft (better known for his Tangee brand) in 1905. Manufacturer of cut price pharmaceuticals, including perfumes and cosmetics for drug stores in the ADS Co-operative. Very few instances of the use of metal compact cases except their D’Arline brand, in the early 1920s. Taken over in 1926 and merged with Vivaudou in 1928 to form VADSCO. Operated until at least the mid 1940s as Universal Laboratories.
American-French Perfume Co. American. American-French Perfume Co, Paris, Tennessee. Minor perfume and cosmetics manufacturer operating from at least 1915 until the early 1920s. Known for its Manta Rosa line but no known compacts or vanity cases used by the company.
American Ideal. American. Cosmetics line made by the California Perfume Co, Suffern, New York. Launched in 1915 American Ideal face powder and rouge were the first California Perfume products to be associated with metal compact cases from about 1916. Examples are very rare.
Americe. American. Perfume and toilet requisites line introduced in 1911 by Marshall Field Department Store, Chicago, Illinois. Americe was the first of Marshall Field's in-house perfume lines and was developed by American perfumer F J M Miles. No evidence that Americe face powder or rouge was packaged in vanity cases or compacts. Production had ceased by 1936.
Andre Chenier. American. A cosmetics line made by the Betty Faye Co, New Haven, Connecticut. Released in 1925 there is evidence of compact cases bearing the Andre Chenier brand name, as well as the name of the fragrance Jipsee Fleurs, that date to the mid 1920s.
Andrew Jergens. American. The Andrew Jergens Co, Cincinnati, Ohio. Soap and cosmetics manufacturer established in 1881. Acquired the John H Woodbury Co in 1901. Jergens was eventually acquired by the Japanese Kao Corporation in the 1988. The Jergens brand survives to this day. Early Jergens face powder brands included; Eutaska, Doris, Ben Hur and Twin Makeup. No known use by Jergens of metal compact or vanity cases.
Ardena. American. A cosmetics line made by Elizabeth Arden Inc, New York, New York. Launched in 1920 Ardena became a well known line of Elizabeth Arden cosmetics and Ardena face powder would have been packaged in compact containers but there are no known compact or vanity cases branded with the Ardena name.
Ardenette. American. A cosmetics line made by Elizabeth Arden Inc, New York, New York. Launched in 1926 Ardenette became best known as one the very few brands that appear on compact and vanity cases used by Elizabeth Arden to package her products. Ardenette peaked in the early 1930s.
Aristocrat. American. A line of compact cases released by Norida Parfumerie in 1926. Characterised by a heavily repoussé image of an eighteenth century woman collecting wild flowers. Fleur Sauvage was the name of the perfume used in association with Aristocrat face powder.
Armand. American. The Armand Co, Des Moines, Iowa. Cosmetics manufacturer established in 1916 by Carl Weeks. The Armand brand was very successful until the late 1920s but declined in popularity and disappeared by 1950. Associated brands were; Florian, a short-lived men’s cosmetic brand, established in 1929 and Carle, equally short-lived. Armand face powder products; including its Symphonie line (1930) were packaged in cheap, mass-produced, metal vanity cases from 1916 to the mid 1930s.
Armour & Company. American. Giant Meat Packing business established by Phillip Armour following the American Civil War. Concern over the huge amount of waste associated with slaughtering animals led to the company finding uses for every part of the carcass. Everything But the Squeal was a common catch cry. Production of soap started in 1888 followed by toilet preparations in the early 1900s. Best known brands were Luxor (1910), Encharma (1924), Lybis (C1926) and Krasny (1927).
Aubry Sisters. American. Aubry Sisters, New York, New York. Established in 1904 as a beautician business by Matilda and Malinda Aubry. Started marketing face powders from 1913. Best known fragrance was Reve D’Amour, released in 1915. Only one known brass compact case marked Aubry Sisters from the early 1920s. Aubry Sisters employed Margaret McCann in 1906 who went on to establish her own cosmetics company - Elmo in 1907.
Avon. American. Avon Inc, Suffern, New York. Established in 1886 as the California Perfume Co, by D H McConnell. Manufacturing a range of perfumes, toilet requisites and household products, it changed its name to Allied Products Inc in 1931 and Avon Inc became a subsidiary in 1939. Best known earliest lines associated with compacts and vanity cases were; American Ideal (1915), Daphne (1915), Mission Garden (1922) and Vernafleur (1926). American Perfumers Laboratories Inc, manufacturers of powder compacts and other cosmetic items, was purchased in 1934. A wide range of low cost, mass produced compact and vanity cases offered from 1916 onwards.
Babbitt. American. The Babbitt Co, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Established as a soap maker by Benjamin T Babbitt in the late 19th Century. Expanded into face powder and rouge in 1924 with its Fleur De Nuit line and distinctively decorated cases with a flower, stars and a crescent moon. Very rare.
Babcock. American. A P Babcock Co, East Rutherford, New Jersey. A minor manufacturer of perfumes and toilet preparations. Established in 1880 its focus changed from perfume to the manufacture of Corylopsis talcum powder in the 1920s but returned to perfumes and other toilet products to the late 1930s. No evidence of the use of metal compact or vanity cases.
Baldwin. American. The Baldwin Perfumery Co, Chicago, Illinois. Established as a perfume manufacturer in 1875 by B D Baldwin. Expanded into face powders and other cosmetics by about 1912 with its Blue Beauty line. Blue Beauty was the first line to be associated with compact cases in about 1920, followed by Otesa a few years later. Baldwin compact cases date from between 1920 and 1925. The company was in business until at least 1929.
Barbara Gould. American. Barbara Gould Ltd, Rochester, New York. Established as a line of perfumes and toilet goods by The International Perfume Company (a combination of Bourjois and CB Woodworth) in 1928. Ms Barbara Gould was just a figurehead for marketing purposes. The brand survived until at least 1952. Compacts and vanity cases were marketed from 1930 to at least 1952.
Barbara Paige. American. An American cosmetics brand that appeared in the 1930s. There is evidence of at least one compact case bearing the Barbara Paige name and logo. No other information has been discovered.
Beaucaire. American. Beaucaire Co Inc, New York, New York. A minor manufacturer of face powder and rouge compacts operating in 1915. No evidence of metal compact or vanity cases but the company did market cardboard vanity cases fitted with a mirror and a puff for its Fleurita line. Very rare.
BeeDeeKay. American. BeeDeeKay Laboratories, New York, New York. Established in 1923 by Bernhard and David Kronish previously with the Adolph Klar organization. Manufacturers of face powder and rouge compacts and other cosmetics. Also specialized in hand decorating vanity cases having marbleized celluloid covers which had been manufactured by companies such as Risdon Manufacturing and Majestic Metal Manufacturing. The company marketed its own range of vanity cases under the trademark Silvaray. Continued in business until the late 1930s.
Behrens Drug Co. American. Behrens Drug Co, Waco, Texas. Established in 1878 as a drug store the business became a major wholesaler and manufacturer of pharmaceuticals and toilet goods for the South Western states. One of its products, Mrs McCormick’s Beauty Rouge, was marketed in cardboard compact cases from about 1915 and a few years later, metal compact cases were used. Very rare.
Belcano. American. Belcano Co, San Francisco, California. A brand of clay facial pack created by Mary E Rowden in 1921. The company expanded to other cosmetics items, including face powder, and released one, strikingly decorated, vanity case in 1925. There is evidence of one other, pink, case but Belcano cases are rare and were probably not produced after The Great Depression. A Belcano Cosmetic Co still exists today selling natural mineral makeup.
Benjamin Ansehl Co. American. Benjamin Ansehl Co, St Louis, Missouri. Business known as Lashbrow Laboratories was established by Benjamin Ansehl in 1912 as a small manufacturer of eyelash and eyebrow preparations under the trademark Lashbrow. Expanded into a larger range of cosmetics with the Vivani line which was launched in 1926. The company was also known as Vivani Perfumers. Best known compact case is for Vivani rouge released in the early 1930s. While Vivani and the company were long-lived, there is no evidence of other compact or vanity cases used by it.
Betty Faye. American. Betty Faye Co, New Haven, Connecticut. Minor manufacturer of cosmetics and toilet goods established in about 1922. Also known as Dr Higgins Laboratories. Produced a range of cosmetics lines, all with French-sounding names including; Andre Chenier (1925), Jean La Salle (1925) and Valencia D’Amour (1925). Jipsee Fleurs, a fragrance, was also used in association with Andre Chenier. There is evidence of compact cases, bearing these brand names, which date to the mid 1920s. The fate of the Betty Faye Co is unknown.
Blue Beauty. American. Cosmetics line made by the The Baldwin Perfumery Co, Chicago, Illinois, released in 1912. Blue Beauty metal compact cases were marketed from about 1920 for only a few years.
Blue Moon. American. Face powder product introduced by Henry Tetlow in 1911. No evidence of Blue Moon having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts.
Blue Rose. American. Perfume and toilet requisites line introduced in 1912 by Marshall Field Department Store, Chicago, Illinois. Blue Rose was the second of Marshall Field's in-house perfume lines and was developed by American perfumer F J M Miles. Blue Rose became a best seller and was packaged in numerous, different vanity cases and compacts from about 1922 to the mid 1930s. Ceased in 1936.
Bo-Kay. American. Bo-Kay Co, Jacksonville, Florida. A manufacturer of perfumes and toilet goods established in 1917. Best known for its Orange Blossom range, introduced in about 1924, but probably acquired from another perfume company. Acquired the Talcum Puff Co in 1929. Operated until at least 1940. There is evidence of one loose powder vanity case used by the company in about 1924 based on a unique patented sifter – US Patent 1459450.
Boissard, Félix. See Félix Boissard.
Boncilla. American. Brand name used by the Crown Chemical Co, Indianapolis, Indiana. Boncilla was a clay-based facial pack introduced in 1916. The brand was expanded to include a full range of cosmetics, including face powder and rouge. These were packaged in distinctively decorated compact cases, most with a humming bird image. Cases date to between 1922 and 1926, only. References to Boncilla products appear until at least 1987.
Bonne Bell. American. Bonne Bell Co, Cleveland, Ohio (now largely relocated to Australia). Established in 1927 it was a manufacturer of cosmetics for younger girls. The company’s rarely marketed its products in compact cases but there is evidence of one case showing a Parisian scene dating from the mid 1930s. Bonne Bell products are still made today.
Boyer. American. Boyer Chemical Laboratory Co, Chicago, Illinois. Manufacturing chemists and private label chemical specialties, including cosmetics, for the wholesale trade. Created Boyer The Society Parfumeur, in about 1922. Compact cases date from between the late 1920s to the early 1930s. Also created Jean Nadal cosmetics but no known compact or vanity cases associated with this line. Boyer Chemical was sold to black entrepreneur S B Fuller in 1947.
Bradley. American. D R Bradley & Son, New York, New York. Established in 1877 as a general perfumer the company made a range of other toilet goods including face powder and became one of America’s leading, early, perfumers. Some of its better known lines were; Woodland Violet (1886), Morning Dew (1892) and Vesta (1898). There are no known compact or vanity cases associated with D R Bradley products.
Buck and Rayner. American. Buck & Rayner Co, Chicago, Illinois. Drug store chain which was once Chicago’s largest. One notable cosmetic product made for Buck & Rayner was a face powder named Jac Rose, originally introduced in 1890. Jac Rose was packaged in at least one metal compact case in approximately 1923. Buck & Rayner was acquired by the United Drug Co in 1928.
Calisher. American. A B Calisher & Co, New York, New York. A minor perfumer and manufacturer of toilet goods, including complexion powder, operating at the turn of the 20th Century. No known compact or vanity cases associated with this company.
Carle. American. A cosmetics line made by the Armand Co, Des Moines, Iowa. Probably acquired from Thayer Pharmacal Co in 1930 and a separate company, Carle Inc, established. This short lived line used a number of trademarked perfumes including; Glory of the Sun (1929), Cytherea (1930) and Interlude (1930). At least one compact case was used by the company but examples are hard to find.
Carlova. American. Carlova Inc, Binghamton, New York. Established by William Loveland and E C Carter in about 1920 it manufactured a range of toilet goods and also owned Lundborg perfumery and the Lander Co. Created the cosmetics line Jane Wilson Adams in 1928 (no known compact or vanity cases). Also manufactured Mary Pickford cosmetics and Elizabeth Post cosmetics both brands using compact cases but just one in the case of Mary Pickford. Operated until at least the mid 1940s. No known compact or vanity cases bearing the Carlova name.
Cashmere Bouquet. American. A perfume and cosmetics line made by Colgate Co, New York, New York and first released in 1869. Cashmere Bouquet would be one of the first Colgate lines to make the transition from perfume to cosmetics and its face powder and rouge products were probably the first Colgate products to be packaged in small cardboard vanity boxes followed by metal boxes in about 1919. Following Colgate’s withdrawal from being a major perfumer in 1928, Cashmere Bouquet was retained as a cosmetics line and continued to be offered until at least 1947.
Caswell Massey. American. Caswell Massey Co, New York, New York. Arguably, America’s oldest manufacturing perfumer established in 1752 by Dr William Hunter in Newport, Rhode Island. Through a number of name changes and business relationships, a company known as Caswell and Massey was eventually established in New York in 1876. A related company, Hazard,Hazard & Co was instrumental in giving a start to the United Toilet Goods Co which became Tre-Jur. No known compact or vanity cases associated with Caswell & Massey name but Caswell & Massey Co Ltd continues in business to this day.
Charbert. American. Parfums Charbert, New York, New York. Founded in 1933 by Herbert Harris as a merchandiser of perfumes and toilet goods. Its products were sold through major department stores with Jay Thorpe as the first. Its distinctive brand image was a drum and its first fragrance was Drumstick (1933). Typically, its compact cases were either decorated to look like a drum or had images of a military drum as the sole decoration. The most common Charbert compacts date to between 1934 and 1937. The company operated until the 1960s
Charles Of The Ritz. American. Charles Of The Ritz Inc, New York, New York. Originally established as a ladies’ hair dressing salon in the Ritz Carlton Hotel 1916, and operated by hairdresser Charles Jundt, the brand name Charles of the Ritz would not appear until 1926. A full range of cosmetics, including face powder, began to be marketed from 1928 and the first Charles of the Ritz compact cases date from that time. Compact cases continue to be marketed until the 1960s. Charles of the Ritz changed ownership a number of times and the brand was retired by Revlon in 2002.
Charmant. American. Charmant Speciality Co, Long Island City, New York. A minor manufacturer of face powder and rouge in compact form, Charmant Speciality Co was established in 1912 by Saul Abrahams. The company sold compact powder refills using the brand name Bunne but reference to the company is most often seen with the word Charmant appearing on powder compact paper covers, on the base of compact refills or on puffs. Charmant did market a few compact cases in its own right - all marked Charmant - but these are hard to find. The company ceased operations in about 1929.
Charmis. American. A perfume and cosmetics line made by Colgate Co, New York, New York and first released in 1913. Charmis was one of a new range of Colgate perfume lines that would be marketed with a full range of cosmetics products. Charmis loose powder was offered in small metal sample boxes but there is no evidence that Charmis was offered in compact form.
Chas M Rich. American. Chas M Rich, New York, New York. A minor perfume and toilet goods manufacturer established in about 1894. Best known for its Peerless Complexion Powder. This product was packaged in an American Stopper Co vanity box in about 1912. The company was later acquired by the Marietta Stanley Co.
Chas Meyer. American. Chas Meyer, New York, New York. A manufacturer of eye make up, theatrical make up and other toilet goods that operated as early as 1868. Best known for its Exora brand of face powder and its use of the puff box designed by Scovill Manufacturing Co for Pozzoni’s Complexion Powder in 1894. The Chas Meyer name was acquired by Eugene R Siering in about 1910 and the company operated until at least 1935 by which time it was also known as Sovereign Products Co. No known compact or vanity boxes associated with Chas Meyer name.
Cheramy. American. Cheramy Inc, New York, New York. Best known as a perfume company, established by the French perfume house of Houbigant expressly for the American market in 1920, but probably first established in Paris some years previously. Organized as an American company Cheramy’s first perfume was Cappi, launched in 1921, as a complete perfume and cosmetics line. April Showers, another Cheramy perfume line, was also created in 1921 but followed the Cappi release. Both Cappi and April Showers face powder and rouge products were marketed in metal compact cases but only for a few years between 1921 and 1925. Cheramy did not use metal compact cases after that date. The Cheramy brand was also introduced to France from 1925 where a completely separate range of aluminium powder boxes were used for packaging. Cheramy made numerous perfume lines and operated until the late 1970s.
Chère Amie Inconnue. French. Perfume and cosmetics line introduced by Félix Boissard. C1913. Known for one distinctive, aluminium, compact box.
Chevalier Garde. American. Parfums Chevalier Garde Inc, New York, New York. A minor perfume and cosmetics line created by Alexander Tarsaidz in 1937. There is evidence of at least one metal compact case decorated with a Maltese Cross. The company operated until at least 1940.
CiMi. American. Cosmetics line made by the Agra Co, Detroit, Michigan and released in 1923. There is evidence of metal compact cases bearing the Ci-Mi brand name that date to between 1923 and 1925 but these are rare.
Cinderella. American. Cinderella Cosmetics Inc, St Paul, Minnesota. A minor wholesale cosmetics company created by John L Sinykin and J P Kozberg in 1930. There is no evidence of Cinderella Cosmetics marketing its cosmetics in metal compact or vanity cases.
Clio et Claire. American. Clio et Claire Ltd, New York, New York. An American company established in 1926 to market perfumes and cosmetics made by the minor French perfumer, Clersanges. The name Clio et Claire may have acknowledged the role of American businesswoman Clara Cassidy who ran the American company. She was the daughter of Charles Whelan, who owned a chain of retail drug stores and cigar stores. Clio et Claire products were first sold through Whelan Drug stores. There is evidence of metal compact cases bearing the letters CC but these are rare. The company operated in America until 1932 but Clersanges continued to be viable in France until the early 1950s.
Colgate. American. Colgate Co, New York, New York. Established in 1806 by William Colgate as a soap and candle manufacturing business. Following his death in 1857 the company expanded to become a major perfume manufacturer. Cashmere Bouquet, its long lasting brand, emerged in 1869 and by 1906 Colgate was making 625 varieties of perfume. Talcum powder and face powder were manufactured in earnest from the turn of the century. The major brands that would be marketed in metal compact containers included; Eclat (1911), Florient (1912), Splendor (1912) Charmis (1913) and Violette de Mai (c1913). Two trademarks were taken out for compact cases; Glove Compact (1924) and Thinpact (1924) but Colgate’s involvement with cosmetics and compact cases, other than for Cashmere Bouquet, started to wane from about 1928. In 1928 Colgate created Maison Jeurelle Inc to market its last cosmetics line – Seventeen.
Colonial Dames. American. Colonial Dames Inc, Los Angeles, California. Claims to be America’s oldest established skin care and cosmetics business with an establishment date of 1886. This claim is probably exaggerated with 1906 as the more likely founding date. For a time, from 1927, it was associated with the Armand Co, Des Moines, Iowa. There is evidence of Colonial Dames using metal compact cases in the early 1930s. Examples are hard to find. Colonial Dames operates to this day.
Comprimette Oriental De Gouraud. American. A face powder product manufactured and marketed by Ferd T Hopkins & Son between 1923 and 1926. Examples are hard to find.
Conde. American. Conde Inc, New York, New York. A minor manufacturer of perfume and cosmetics established in about 1920 by Manuela Condedo Avila. The brand came to prominence with a change of management in 1922 and operated until at least 1930. Conde Inc did market its face powders and rouges in metal compact cases from 1922 to about 1930. It’s best known cosmetics line was Glo D’Or, released in 1922 . A number of different compact cases were marketed containing Glo D’Or face powder.
Constance Bennett. American. Constance Bennett Cosmetics Co Inc, Hollywood, California. A cosmetics line established in 1937 by the movie star Constance Bennett. The line offered a complete range of cosmetics including face powder which was also offered in compact cases and vanity cases. These rare cases can be recognized by their coral colour with regal leitmotif and emblazoned coronet. The company went bankrupt and was sold in 1947.
Continental Drug. American. Continental Drug Corp, St Louis, Missouri. Manufacturer of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics with an unknown establishment date. Released a cosmetics line named Haut Ton in about 1922. Haut Ton was a term popular during the British Regency Period and means, essentially, high class. Two metal compact cases, both manufactured by the Pallas Manufacturing Co, have been identified with the Haut Ton brand name, both dating to about 1922-1923.
Crown Chemical Co. American. Crown Chemical Co, Indianapolis, Indiana. Manufacturer of the brand Boncilla, a clay-based facial pack introduced in 1916. The brand was expanded to include a full range of cosmetics, including face powder and rouge. These were packaged in distinctively decorated compact cases, most with a humming bird image. Cases date to between 1922 and 1926, only. References to Boncilla products appear until at least 1987.
Crystal Chemical. American. Crystal Chemical Co, New York, New York. Manufacturer of toilet goods established by Myram Picker in the early 1900s and incorporated in 1912. The name probably derived from Picker’s wife’s maiden name – Krystal. Picker established a related company, Trece Laboratories in 1919. Early face powder products were; Egeria (about 1915), La Charmeuse and La Fleurette – both evident in 1920. Only La Fleurette was packaged in metal compact cases. Trece Labs had close relationships with Risdon Manufacturing and Majestic Metal Specialities– both vanity case manufacturers – and organized vanity cases and powder and rouge compacts for other perfume and cosmetics companies, notably the Marinello Company. Best known cosmetics line, Outdoor Girl, was released in 1928 but was sold to Affiliated Sales in 1935 when Crystal Chemical Co ceased operating.
D’Arline. American. Cosmetics line made by the American Druggists’ Syndicate (ADS), Long Island City, New York. Released in 1923 it was associated with ADS fragrances such as Tijade (released in 1924) and compact cases bearing both names are in evidence.
Daggett and Ramsdell. American. Daggett and Ramsdell, New York, New York. Established by V Chapin Daggett and Clifford Ramsdell as a retail drug business in 1890, the company started to focus on cosmetics preparations following their invention of Perfect Cold Cream in 1893. The company produced its first face powder in 1913 naming it Debutante. Poudre Amourette followed in 1915. Neither product would be packaged in metal compact or vanity cases until the company was sold to the Standard Oil Company in 1929. The first Daggett & Ramsdell-branded compacts were marketed from about 1930 through to the early 1950s. The Daggett & Ramsdell company was bought and sold a number of times from 1948 onwards and in 1955 the company acquired the Primrose House company. The Daggett & Ramsdell brand still exists today.
Daphne. American. Cosmetics line made by the California Perfume Co, Suffern, New York. Launched in 1915 Daphne face powder and rouge was packaged using cardboard vanity boxes fitted with mirrors from about 1916. Examples are very rare.
De Meridor. American. A cosmetics line originally started in 1905 by William Herbert Roystone but sold in 1912 to The Kells Co of Newburgh, New York who merged De Meridor with The Lazell Perfume business in 1914. Main product was a face cream but there is evidence of tin samplers of De Meridor face powder containers
De Pree. American. DePree Chemical Co, Holland, Michigan. A manufacturing pharmaceuticals company established in the late 1890s by Cornelius De Pree. By 1913 it had created its San-Tox brand for a range of products to be sold in drug stores, including cosmetics. A San-Tox face powder was produced but packaged only in cardboard boxes, as was face powder for a cosmetics line named Enchantment, which was introduced in 1917. In 1919 the San-Tox Pierrette line was introduced and there is evidence of one metal compact case being used with Pierrette face powder in about 1922. The Pierrette trademark was acquired by the United Toilet Goods Co and would form the basis of the Tre-Jur logo in 1924. De Pree Chemical was purchased in the early 1930s by the J B Laboratories who kept the De Pree identity and San-Tox name until at least 1942.
Debutante. American. A cosmetics line made by Daggett and Ramsdell, New York, New York. Released in 1913, Debutante would become the principal face powder product of the Daggett & Ramsdell brand and was available for sale until at least 1947. Metal face powder compacts used to package Debutante powder were first used from about 1930 and continued until 1943 when plastic compacts started to be used.
Dermetics. American. Dermetics Inc, New York, New York. A manufacturer of cosmetics established in 1934. The line marketed its face powder products in distinctively decorated cases showing a stylized gazelle. The Dermetics Co was sold a number of times but operated until the 1980s.
Dermis. American. Face powder product introduced by The Tetlow Manufacturing Company in 1892. No evidence of Dermis having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts.
DeVore. American. DeVore Manufacturing Co, Columbus, Ohio. A minor manufacturer of perfumes and toilet goods established in about 1914. One known line was Le Pandora which was marketed with compact cases manufactured by the J V Pilcher Co in 1931. The Company operated until the early 1930s, at least.
Doraldina. American. Doraldina Inc, Hollywood, California. A minor cosmetics brand that emerged in 1915 but was quite obscure until it became incorporated in 1927. Having initially sold just one product, Allura face powder the company released a number of new cosmetics lines in 1929 including; Desert Tan, Gypsy Lure and Palm Beach Tan. These skin make ups capitalized on the skin tone of the stage and screen actress after whom the company was named – Doraldina. By 1933 Doraldina had expanded to offer a complete line of toilet preparations but the company failed in 1935. Charles of The Ritz acquired the Doraldina trade name in 1938 and the brand was re-launched but was again sold in 1945. There is evidence of occasional use of metal compact cases to package Doraldina products, dating to the late 1920s or early 1930s. One version was a gold case with a repousse representation of a dancing Doraldina. These are rare.
Dorin. See Maison Dorin.
Dorothy Gray. American. Dorothy Gray Inc, New York, New York. The business was established in 1915 by Dorothy Cloudman, initially as a beauty salon. By 1922 a line of toilet preparations was also being manufactured and sold through a growing chain of Dorothy Gray beauty shops. The Dorothy Gray business was acquired by Lehn & Fink in 1927 and from this time the brand became much better known. It remained one of America’s prestige cosmetics brands and despite being bought and sold a number of times, its skin care products are still made today. Dorothy Gray face powders and rouges were packaged in metal compact and vanity cases from about 1923. The earliest cases were decorated with a girl in a hoop skirt which continued until 1926 when a Wedgewood motif was adopted. The most collectible cases were marketed after WWII, the most notable being for the Savoir Faire line launched in 1947.
Dorothy Perkins. American. Dorothy Perkins Cosmetics Inc, St Louis, Missouri. A manufacturer of cosmetics products initially established in Dallas, Texas, in 1921 by an unknown woman. The trademark was acquired by John H Miller in 1925 who created the Dorothy Perkins Cosmetics Co and relocated it to St Louis in 1927. Dorothy Perkins packaged its face powders and rouges in metal compact cases and used the initials DP on the earliest cases from the late 1920s. Later cases used the image of a rose referring to the famous Dorothy Perkins climbing rose. Not to be confused with the British women’s clothing retailer.
Dorothy Vernon. American. Cosmetics line made by the Jennings Manufacturing Co, Grand Rapids, Michigan. Named after Dorothy Vernon, the Elizabethan, romantic figure, the line was originally trademarked in 1895. Marketed as a toilet requisites line, Dorothy Vernon products also included face powder but there is no evidence of it being packaged in metal compact or vanity cases despite being sold as late as 1918.
Dr J Parker Pray. American. Dr J Parker Pray Co, Passaic, New Jersey. Established in 1868 as a chiropodist and manicurist the company also manufactured products for beautifying the skin, lips and finger nails. Products included; Cravanola (for whitening the hands), Ongoline (for cleaning nails), Plixine (a hair remover), Olivine (a skin ointment), Diamond (a nail enamel packaged in a distinctive diamond-shaped box) and Rosaline (a rouge tint, introduced in 1887). A face powder, Hygenia, was also introduced later. There is no evidence of Parker Pray products being packaged in metal compact cases or vanity cases. The company operated until at least 1925.
Dr Pierre. American. Dr Pierre Chemical Co, Chicago, Illinois. A pharmaceuticals manufacturing company established in the early 1900s by brothers John and Robert Taft. While there is no record that Dr Pierre Chemical Co ever made perfumes or toilet goods, its main claim to fame was the manufacture of prophylactics and feminine hygiene products. The company’s connection with compact cases was that it used one of the tin boxes made by the American Stopper Co in about 1912 as an advertising novelty. Examples of this, one of America’s earliest commercial vanity boxes, are very hard to find.
E Burnham. American. E Burnham Inc, Chicago, Illinois. Established by Edward and Mary Burnham, in 1871, as a wholesaler of hairdressing supplies. By 1890 the company became incorporated and also established a training school to teach the Burnham method of hairdressing. The company produced a line of toilet goods under the Kalos brand from 1908. One of the earliest E Burnham face powder products was Gen Tsa released in 1911 and this was packaged in a metal vanity box in about 1916. Another complexion powder product – Fairy Fluff (1914) – was only packaged in cardboard boxes. Generically branded E Burnham compact cases can be found dating to the mid 1920s but the company became bankrupt in 1933. An E Burnham Cosmetics Co exists today but there seems to be no direct link with this and the original company.
E M Davis. American. E M Davis Soap Co, Chicago, Illinois. Established in 1896 as a soap manufacturer the company also manufactured face powders including; Delice and Empress Poudre de Riz. Packaged in cardboard boxes designed for use on a dresser, there is no evidence that the company used metal compact or vanity cases.
E W Hoyt. American. E W Hoyt & Co, Lowell, Massachusetts. Eli Hoyt was a partner in an apothecary shop which he gained control of in 1863. E W Hoyt became famous for his German Cologne first made in about 1870. By 1877 Hoyt decided to sell the apothecary shop and to concentrate on cologne manufacture. While Hoyt died in 1887 the company continued until 1951. E W Hoyt never made cosmetics but its name will forever be associated with its advertising cards, many of which were perfumed and which are very collectible today. Not to be confused with another cologne manufacturer named F Hoyt, based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Eclat. American. A perfume and cosmetics line made by Colgate Co, New York, New York and first released in 1911. Eclat was one of a new range of Colgate perfume lines that would be marketed with a full range of cosmetics products. Eclat loose powder was offered in small metal sample boxes but there is no evidence that Eclat was offered in compact form.
Edna Wallace Hopper. American. Edna Wallace Hopper Co, Waukesha, Wisconsin. Cosmetics manufacturing company established in 1922 by Otis and Fred Glidden. The company was named after the then well known, but ageing, Broadway variety artist, Edna Wallace Hopper. A range of cosmetic products was offered including face powder. One iconic metal vanity case, made by the Simon Zinn Corp, was marketed in 1923 and probably no others despite the brand lasting until the 1940s.
Egeria. American. A face powder brand made by the Crystal Chemical Co, New York, New York. Released in about 1915, or possibly a few years earlier, Egeria was the first Crystal Chemical Co face powder product to be marketed but it was only packaged in cardboard vanity boxes.
Eider Down. American. Face powder product introduced by The Tetlow Manufacturing Company in 1888 as a deliberately provocative competitor for Henry Tetlow's Swan Down. No evidence of Eider Down having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts.
Eleanor Hamlin. American. A line of Lucite and Plexi Glass compacts manufactured by Mavco from 1945 to 1949. Eleanor Hamlin was the maiden name of the wife of Mavco's founder, Malcolm A Vendig. Eleanor Hamlin was also Mavco's marketing manager.
Elizabeth Arden. American. Elizabeth Arden Inc, New York, New York. Established by Canadian, Florence Nightingale Graham in 1910 as a beauty salon. The Velva line was launched in the same year but it would be Venetian line (1916) that would mark the emergence of the business as a serious player in the cosmetics field in America. Poudre D’Illusion also launched in 1916 would also become a well known brand, recognizable by the pink cardboard puff box it was packaged in from 1916. By 1922 Elizabeth Arden branches had opened in Paris and London and the Ardena brand had been launched (1920). By 1926 Ardenette brand was released and this would become one of the best known brands associated with the Elizabeth Arden Name. There are far too many perfume and cosmetics lines and brands released by the company to list in a summary and the Elizabeth Arden name was and continues to be a giant in the cosmetics field. She was a packaging genius and a perfectionist, changing approach as she saw the market changing. For this reason there is no distinctive branding used on the vast number of compact and vanity cases used to package Arden products. Elizabeth Arden compacts can be found from 1916 onwards.
Elizabeth Post. American. A cosmetics brand made by the Lander Co, Binghampton, New York. First released in 1934, Elizabeth Post cosmetics were designed to be a budget brand and were sold through the S H Kress & Co five and dime stores. There is evidence of Elizabeth Post compact cases being used to package compact powder during the 1930s. It is not known when the brand finally disappeared.
Elmo. American. Elmo Inc, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. A beauty salon established in 1907 by sisters Margaret and Mary McCann, trading as the Elmo Sisters. The company quickly expanded in manufacturing rouge, face powder and other cosmetics. Best known early lines, introduced in 1919, were; Margo, Mur Je and Ra Lo. Operated as a family business, Elmo was moderately successful, despite family fights. It made medium priced cosmetics which were sold through drug and department stores. Photo Finish, another popular line, was introduced in 1941. Elmo’s use of compact and vanity cases was conservative except for one notable case marketed in the late 1920s. The Company was operating until 1956.
Enchantment. American. A cosmetics line made by the DePree Chemical Co, Holland, Michigan as part of its San-Tox brand and introduced in 1917. There is evidence of one metal compact case, manufactured by the Bridgeport Metal Goods Manufacturing Co in about 1924, being used to package Enchantment face powder.
Encharma. American. Cosmetics line made by Luxor Ltd, a subsidiary of Armour & Company of Chicago, IL. Introduced in 1924 it had a relatively short life but is best known for its colourful oval presentation boxes and sampler tins rather than for metal compacts cases.
Ex-Cel-Cis. American. Ex-Cel-Cis Products Co, Salt Lake City,Utah. Established in about 1928 as a beauty salon and cosmetics manufacturer, Ex-Cel-Cis remained a small, but surprisingly long-lived, player in the American cosmetics field. It’s interests eventually shrank to become the Ex-Cel-Cis Beauty College which finally stopped operating in about 1999. Despite its small size, the company did use metal compact cases to market its face powder and rouge products with its first compact case being released in 1928 with others being used in later years. The company’s small size makes its compact cases rare.
Exora. American. A complexion powder brand made by Chas Meyer, New York, New York. Probably trademarked in the 1890s Exora powder was offered in the mid 1890s with a puff box made by the Scovill Manufacturing Co for Pozzoni’s Complexion Powder in 1894. No known compact or vanity boxes associated with Exora name.