GLOSSARY F - J
F Hoyt. American. F Hoyt, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Established in about 1868 as a manufacturer of cologne. The company never expanded into cosmetics manufacture but the Hoyt name still exists today. Not to be confused with another cologne manufacturer, E W Hoyt who was based in Lowell, Massachusetts.
Fair Maid. American. Face powder product introduced by The Tetlow Manufacturing Company in 1912. Evidence of just one tin toilet powder box, manufactured by The American Stopper Company in 1912, used to promote Fair Maid.
Fan Tan. American. Fan Tan Labs, Chicago, Illinois. Established in 1928 by Paul Edwards as a cosmetics manufacturer. Was also known as the Black Diamond Co, the Gro Pres Co and the Gold Star Tooth Powder Co. It was known to manufacture face powder but not to package its products in metal compact or vanity cases. The Fan Tan Co operated until at least 1938.
Fairy Fluff. American. Cosmetics line made by E Burnham Inc, Chicago, Illinois. Fairy Fluff was marketed under the broader, Kalos, line of cosmetics products from about 1914. There is evidence of Fairy Fluff Complexion Powder being packaged in cardboard boxes but not metal compact or vanity cases.
Félix Boissard. French. Beauty Shop and Hairdressing business based in Paris. Félix Boissard opened a shop in London for two years between 1926 and 1927. Possibly related to Pennes Fils et Boissard but not verified. Marketed some perfume and cosmetics lines such as Chère Amie Inconnue (1913), Madelon (1919). Marketed distinctive repousse aluminium compact boxes between 1911 and 1914.
Finesse. American. Perfume and cosmetics line introduced by The Glebeas Importation Company in 1924. There is evidence of one compact container marked with the word Finesse from the late 1920s or early 1930s.
Flair. American. Perfume and toilet requisites line introduced in 1923 by Marshall Field Department Store, Chicago, Illinois. Flair was the last of Marshall Field's in-house perfume lines and was developed by Harold Lancaster, Marshall Field's Chief Chemist. Marketed under Marshall Field's in-house Lanchere perfumery there are many types of, typically square-shaped Flair cases from the 1920s until Marshall Field ceased making its own perfumes and cosmetics in 1936.
Flamme De Gloire. American. Trademark for perfume and cosmetics taken out by The Frederick Stearns Co of Detroit, Michigan with first use claimed in 1923. Probably the reason why The Talcum Puff Co changed its product from Fleur De Gloire to Fleur de Glorie.
Fleur De Glorie. American. Trademark for face powder assigned to The Talcum Puff Company with first use claimed from 1921. Originally trademarked as Fleur de Gloire it was withdrawn because of its similarity to the trademark owned by The Frederick Stearns Co of Detroit, Michigan - Flamme De Gloire. Fleur De Glorie cases are commonly found.
Fleur De Lis. American. Face powder product introduced by The Tetlow Manufacturing Company in 1906. No evidence of Fleur De Lis having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts. The trademark was purchased by The Louis Philippe Company in 1923 whose logo was a French Fleur De Lis.
Fleur De Nuit. American. Cosmetics line made by the The Babbitt Co, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania released in about 1924. Fleur De Nuit face powder was marketed in distinctively decorated cases with a flower, stars and a crescent moon. There is evidence of one case, manufactured by the Zinn Corporation in about 1924. Very rare.
Fleur Sauvage. America. Perfume line released by The National Trading Company and its subsidiary, Norida Parfumerie in 1924. Source of the perfume was possibly the British perfumer D'Haussy.
Florian. American. A men’s cosmetics line made by the Armand Co, Des Moines, Iowa. Carl Weeks, Armand’s founder, created a separate company known as Florian Inc based in Detroit, Michigan, to market Florian products. Florian was launched in 1929 but the line was short lived. Curiously, a Florian powder product for men was offered in a compact case. These are not commonly found.
Floridena. American. Face powder product introduced by The Tetlow Manufacturing Company in 1892. No evidence of Floridena having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts.
Florient. American. A perfume and cosmetics line made by Colgate Co, New York, New York and first released in 1912. Florient was one of a new range of Colgate perfume lines that would be marketed with a full range of cosmetics products. Florient loose powder was offered in small metal sample boxes but there is no evidence that Florient was offered in compact form.
Frivole. American. A perfume and cosmetics line made by The Sanitol Chemical Laboratory Company, St Louis MO and first released in 1915. Frivole was discontinued in 1922 after Sanitol was purchased by Richard R Warner in 1922. Only one vanity case associated with the Frivole line.
Gen Tsa. American. Cosmetics line made by E Burnham Inc, Chicago, Illinois. Gen Tsa was released in 1911 and was probably the first E Burnham line whose face powder was packaged in slip cover metal vanity boxes – probably from about 1916. The Gen Tsa line was probably very short lived.
Glebeas. American. A cosmetics line that started life making imitation, perfumed, flowers as The Austro-Hungarian Art Company. By 1916 it switched to perfumes and toilet preparations. Best known lines were Inspiration, released in 1913 and Adoration released in 1915. First compact case released C 1922. Ceased production in about 1943.
Glo D’Or. American. A cosmetics line made by Conde Inc, New York, New York. Glo D’Or was released in 1922 and was the best known line made by Conde. A number of different compact cases were used to package Glo D’or powder between 1922 and 1925.
Glove Compact. American. A trademark registered by Colgate Co, New York, New York for a certain type of compact case and first released in 1924.
Gossamer. American. Face powder product introduced by Henry Tetlow in 1876. No evidence of the product having been packaged in metal vanity cases or compacts.
Gouraud. American. Dr Felix T Gouraud was the name of a small toilet preparations business established by Joseph W Trust in 1839 in New York, New York. The patent medicines made by Trust included liquid rouge and a 'magical beautifier' (a face cream). When Trust died, his widow remarried to a man named Ferdinand T Hopkins. Hopkins sold Gouraud's preparations user the auspices of his own business - Ferd T Hopkins & Son. Only one compact case was marketed for a product named Comprimette Oriental De Gouraud between 1923 and 1926.
Haut Ton. American. A cosmetics line made by the Continental Drug Corp, St Louis, Missouri. Haut Ton was released in about 1922. The name Haut Ton was a term popular during the British Regency Period and means, essentially, high class. Two metal compact cases, both manufactured by the Pallas Manufacturing Co, have been identified with the Haut Ton brand name, both dating to about 1922-1923.
Hinds. American. A S Hinds Co, Portland, Maine. Druggist A S Hinds developed a skin cream formulation based on almonds and honey in 1870. He made other cosmetics, including face powder, based on the same formulation. The company was sold to Lehn & Fink in 1926. No evidence of the use of metal compact or vanity cases.
Hopkins, Ferd T. American. Ferdinand T Hopkins married the widow of Joseph W Trust whose business persona was Dr Felix T Gouraud and who made a range of patent medicine toilet requisites. Hopkins and his son assumed the management of the Gouraud line of products under his own name - Ferd T Hopkins & Son in about 1897. Only one compact case was marketed for a product named Comprimette Oriental De Gouraud between 1923 and 1926.
Hopper, Edna Wallace. American. See Edna Wallace Hopper.
Inspiration. American. Trademark for perfume and cosmetics assigned to George H Betts who owned the Glebeas Importation Company. Inspiration was released in 1913.
Jac Rose. American. Cosmetics brand made by Buck & Rayner Co, Chicago, Illinois. Buck & Rayner was once Chicago’s largest drug store chain . Jac Rose was originally introduced in 1890 and was packaged in at least one metal compact case in approximately 1923. Buck & Rayner was acquired by the United Drug Co in 1928.
Janice. American. Cosmetics line made by the Allan-Pfeiffer Chemical Co, St Louis, Missouri which was being sold in the early 1900s. No metal vanity cases are associated with this company. Janice should not be confused with Bouquet Jeanice, a United Drug Company perfume line.
Jarvaise. American. Cosmetics brand made by The Heinrich Chemical Company (trading as Jarvaise Perfumer Inc), Minneapolis, MN. Launched in 1922 with a complete range of cosmetics , including compact powder and rouge as well as perfumes. Jarvaise marketed a number of compact cases from 1923 to about 1929 when the company was bought by La Pompadour in December 1929. Jarvaise products ceased by 1933.
Jean La Salle. American. A cosmetics line made by the Betty Faye Co, New Haven, Connecticut. Released in 1925 there is evidence of compact cases bearing the Jean La Salle brand name, that date to the mid 1930s.
Jean Nadal. American. Cosmetics line made by the Boyer Chemical Laboratory Co, Chicago, Illinois. There are no known compact or vanity cases associated with this line.
Jennings. American. Jennings Manufacturing Co, Grand Rapids, Michigan. Established by three Jennings brothers in 1872, originally as a flavouring extracts manufacturer. Perfume and other toilet requisites were manufactured from 1895 starting with the Dorothy Vernon line. Other notable lines were Lady Alice (1905) and Ma Joie (1923). There is no evidence that Jennings Manufacturing Co face powders or rouges were packaged in metal compact or vanity cases. The company operated until at least the late 1920s.
Jipsee Fleurs. American. A fragrance made by the Betty Faye Co, New Haven, Connecticut. Released in 1925 there is evidence of compact cases bearing the Jipsee Fleurs brand name, as well as the name of the associated cosmetics line Andre Chenier, that date to the late 1920s.
Joncaire. American. A Joncaire Inc, Boston, Massachusetts. A minor perfume manufacturing company incorporated in 1919. Evidence of face powders and rouge from the early 1920s and vanity cases from the mid 1920s to mid 1930s. Sales of perfume until at least 1946.
Juliette. American. A cosmetics line made by William H Loveland Co, Binghamton, New York. Launched in 1923 there is only one recorded use of a metal compact case marked Juliette.